Tuesday, February 17, 2009

Butternut Squash Gnocchi with Brown Butter Sauce


Sarah, my daughter/photographer has been complaining that all the recipes I have posted are brown. Apparently brown is very boring to photograph. A quick glance through the index shows she is right. In fact, with the exception of the raspberry poppy seed salad dressing, everything is brown, brown, and brown. Boring. I also noticed that lately the blog has been leaning a little too heavy in the confectionary direction, which is really disappointing since I have a recipe for chocolate sheet cake that I want to post. I suppose that will have to wait a week or two. I hate being in a rut. Today I decided to try my hand at something a little more exciting than brown. It's orange in fact, which you might consider kind of brownish, but the addition of fried sage leaves expands the color palate enough. And the brown butter sauce, which is my brown security blanket, doesn't really look brown on the plate, unless you burn it.

Gnocchi
1 medium butternut squash, peeled, seeded, and cut into chunks
1 container whole-milk or part-skim ricotta (15- or 16-ounce)
1 cup panko (japanese bread crumbs)
2 large eggs
1 tablespoon minced fresh sage leaves
1/4 teaspoon grated fresh nutmeg
salt
pepper
1 1/2 cups flour, plus more for shaping and rolling
2 ounces Parmesan cheese, grated (about 1 cup), plus more for serving

Sauce
4 tablespoons butter
10 or 12 small sage leaves
1 tablespoon good quality balsamic vinegar

Gnocchi
Place butternut squash chunks in a microwave safe bowl, add 1/4 cup water, cover with plastic wrap, and microwave on high until squash is very tender, checking about every 3 minutes. When squash is tender, drain water, place squash on a plate and mash with a fork. Line a strainer with paper towels and spread 1 1/2 cups of puree over towels. Any extra puree can be frozen for later or used as baby food for the kids.

Line another strainer with paper towels. Spread ricotta over towels and allow both squash and ricotta to drain for about an hour.

Transfer ricotta and squash to food processor and process until smooth, about eight 1-second pulses. Using rubber spatula, combine ricotta/squash mixture, eggs, sage, nutmeg, 1 teaspoon salt, and 1/2 teaspoon ground pepper in a large bowl. Add flour, Parmesan, and panko; stir until well combined. Refrigerate dough for 15 minutes (this allows the mixture to firm up a bit as the panko absorbs some liquid). Check texture of dough by scooping up a golf ball sized portion. Dough should hold together nicely. If it is too sticky and coats your hand then add more flour, 1 tablespoon at a time. The trick is to use just enough flour to keep the dough from sticking to your hands and work surface; using too much flour will result in tough gnocchi.

Dust work surface with flour. With floured hands, roll lemon-sized piece of dough into 3/4-inch-thick rope, rolling from center of dough outward. Cut rope into 3/4-inch-long pieces and transer to parchment paper-lined rimmed baking sheet. Repeat with remaining dough, dusting work surface with flour as needed.



For Sauce
Melt butter in 12-inch skillet over medium-high heat, swirling occasionally. Add sage leaves and allow to crisp. Remove leaves from butter, place on paper towels to drain and continue cooking butter until it is browned and releases a nutty aroma. Off heat stir in balsamic vinegar; cover to keep warm.

To Cook Gnocchi
Bring 4 quarts water to boil in large pot over high heat. Add 1 tablespoon salt. Reduce heat so water is simmering, then gently drop one-fourth of gnocchi into water and cook until all pieces float to surface. Continue to simmer until gnocchi are cooked through, about 2 minutes longer, adjusting heat to maintain gentle simmer. Using slotted spoon, scoop gnocchi from water, allowing excess water to drain from spoon; transfer gnocchi to skillet with sauce and cover to keep warm.


Repeat cooking process with remaining gnocchi. Using rubber spatula, gently toss gnocchi with sauce until uniformly coated. Toss fried sage leaves over top and serve immediately. Pass extra Parmesan on the side.

This recipe was loosely based on a ricotta gnocchi recipe from Cook's Illustrated. I added the butternut squash and panko and changed the proportions. We love how light and puffy the gnocchi are and how they melt in your mouth. Cooks Illustrated claims that the gnocchi can be rolled, cut, and refrigerated for up to 24 hours. To freeze the uncooked gnocchi, place the baking sheet in the freezer until gnocchi are firm (about 1 hour), then transfer them to a zip-lock bag and store them for up to 1 month. Thaw frozen gnocchi overnight in the refrigerator or at room temperature for 1 hour before cooking as directed.

The gnocchi pairs especially well with the asiago cheese version of Stupid Easy Peasant Bread

Thursday, February 5, 2009

Brownies, Probably The Final Version


Remember how I said I was on a mission to find the perfect brownie recipe? I nearly gave up. And come on, if that Ghiradelli Triple Chocolate box mix is nearly as good as any recipe I've ever tried, why bother? Here's why - some of us bake brownies for the sole purpose of licking the bowl at the end. No matter how the brownies bake up, boxed brownie batter is NEVER as good as scratch. I've done the experiment so just trust me on this one. But something happened when I wandered away from the batter and actually ate this brownie. I think I may have found the final version.

The original version of this recipe was created to fill an 8-inch square baking pan. But why would you do that? Can't you find some friends, or co-workers, or graduate students who would be willing to share a 9x13 pan with you?

Brownies
adapted from The Perfect Recipe by Pam Anderson

1 1/3 cup all-purpose flour (5.75 ounces if you use a food scale)
1 teaspoon salt
1 teaspoon baking powder
8 ounces semisweet baking chocolate (I prefer Ghiradelli)
4 ounces unsweetened baking chocolate (lately I have been using Trader Joe's brand but I bet Baker's would be fine)
20 tablespoons butter (2 1/2 sticks)
2 1/2 cups granulated sugar
4 teaspoons vanilla extract
6 large eggs
1 cup chopped toasted nuts, if you like

Preheat oven to 325 degrees. Fit a sheet of aluminum foil into a 9 x 13 inch pan and up and over two sides so you can use the foil overhang as handles to pull the cooked brownie out of the pan. Spray the foil with nonstick cooking spray.

Whisk together the flour, salt, and baking powder in a small bowl. Set aside.

Gently melt the semisweet and unsweetened chocolates and butter in the microwave at 30 second intervals until completely melted, stirring frequently and being very careful to not scorch the chocolate. You could use a double boiler on the stove top instead of the microwave. Whisk in the sugar and vanilla. Whisk in the eggs one at a time, fully incorporating each one before adding the next. Continue to whisk until the mixture is completely smooth and glossy. Add the dry ingredients and whisk until just incorporated.

Pour the batter into the prepared pan, smoothing the top. Sprinkle nuts over the top (if you are using them) and bake until a toothpick inserted in the center comes out with wet crumbs, 45 to 50 minutes. If the toothpick comes out clean, the brownies are overcooked. Bummer.

Let brownies cool in the pan on a cooling rack. When ready to serve, lift brownie from the pan using aluminum foil handles. Place brownie on counter and cut into squares.

Tips:
Did you know that it is easier to cut brownies with a plastic knife? This eliminates the sticking problem.
You may have noticed that I recommend sprinkling the nuts over the top rather than stirring them into the batter. Cook's Illustrated pointed out that nuts tend to steam and become a little soggy when incorporated into the batter. If you place them on top they stay nice and crunchy. If you like softer nuts then stir them in. Or leave them out altogether. I won't tell.
If you are a misanthrope and don't want to share your 9 x 13 pan of perfect brownies then cut the recipe in half, bake for 35 to 45 minutes and enjoy the 8-inch square batch all by yourself.

Eat Your Heart Out

Tuesday, February 3, 2009

Oatmeal Cake by LaRita Lunt & Others in Belgrade


I am afraid when I tell you this cake is called "Oatmeal Cake by LaRita Lunt & Others in Belgrade" AND that the version I inherited from my mother-in-law calls for oleo you might not make it. That would be unfortunate. This cake has never failed me - it's moist and delicious and above all easy to make. You don't even need a mixer, just a wooden spoon, a big bowl and 20 minutes to let the oatmeal soften. I suppose since it contains oatmeal you could even make the claim it is whole grain. But then again, some things are best understated, at least at my house. I am open to suggestions for a more pleasing title. No, I am begging for suggestions. Help me out here!

Cake:
1 1/2 cups boiling water
1 cup quick cooking oats (NOT instant and NOT old fashioned)
1/2 cup (1 stick) softened butter
1 cup brown sugar
1 cup granulated sugar
1 teaspoon cinnamon
1 teaspoon baking soda
1/2 teaspoon salt
2 eggs, lightly beaten
1 1/2 cups all-purpose flour

Topping:
6 tablespoons softened butter
1 cup brown sugar
1 cup sweetened coconut OR 1 cup chopped nuts (we prefer pecans), or be bold and use a 1/2 cup of each - my favorite.
1/4 cup heavy cream

Preheat oven to 350 degrees. Grease a 9 x 13 inch cake pan.

In a large mixing bowl pour boiling water over oats and let set for 10 minutes. Add softened butter and brown and white sugars. Let set for 10 more minutes while the butter melts. Beat vigorously with a wooden spoon until all ingredients are incorporated and the batter is glossy. Stir in cinnamon, soda, and salt. Add eggs, one at a time, stirring until incorporated then stir in the flour.

Don't panic if the batter seems thin - it will be. Pour it into the prepared pan and bake for 30 minutes.

While the cake bakes prepare the topping. In a small bowl combine softened butter, brown sugar, and heavy cream. Stir until soft and all ingredients are incorporated. Stir in coconut and/or chopped nuts.

Spread the topping over the hot cake, return to the oven and bake 10 minutes more. Place cake pan on a cooling rack for a few minutes before you give in and eat it. That's it.

Sunday, February 1, 2009

Gingersnaps



These gingersnaps should come with a warning: have plenty of cold milk on hand and only bake as many as you intend to eat. I can't even tell you if these cookies are good the next day because they have never lasted that long.

Gingersnaps
adapted from epicurious

2 1/4 cups flour, divided
1 teaspoon baking soda
1 teaspoon ground ginger
1 teaspoon ground cinnamon
1/2 teaspoon ground cloves
1 cup dark brown sugar
1 1/2 sticks (3/4 cup) unsalted butter
1/4 cup molasses
1 egg
sugar for dusting cookies

Sift together 1 cup of the flour, baking soda, ginger, cinnamon, cloves and brown sugar. Set aside. Melt the butter, either in the microwave or in a small saucepan. Whisk in the molasses, then the egg. Whisk this mixture into the flour mixture, then stir in remaining 1 1/4 cups flour. Chill dough, covered, until firm, at least 1 hour, and up to 2 days.

Preheat oven to 350 degrees and line baking sheets with parchment paper.

Roll level tablespoons of dough into balls and in a small bowl roll balls in granulated sugar to coat. Arrange balls on baking sheet and bake in batches in middle of oven for 10 to 12 minutes. Cool cookies on baking sheet for about 2 minutes and transfer to counter top to cool completely.

You might notice from the picture that my cookies have a little glaze drizzled over the top. This isn't really necessary but I seem to have problems knowing when to stop. To make this glaze just mix some powdered sugar with some heavy cream. Stir and adjust the balance of each ingredient until you are happy with the way the glaze falls from a fork atop the cookie.